![]() ![]() If you can feel them with your fingernail, they’re deep enough to leak. Specifically, feel around with your fingernail to see if you can catch any scratches. You want to make sure everything is very clean before putting the new seal in, or it can leak too. Using the shorter key won’t hurt anything, and my engine is still running great a year later. The key only exists to keep everything aligned while you torque down the crank bolt. They made it out of a single rectangular bar and got rid of the slanted portion in the picture. If you get a new Woodruff key, it may well be shorter than the one you removed. If you significantly mar the surface of the woodruff key like I did, or if you just want to be 100% thorough while doing this job, you can get a new woodruff key for a couple of bucks from Mazda. I wasn’t able to do that, so I used a screwdriver and a paint can opener on opposite sides to wiggle it off it can be on there pretty tight. If you can remove the key, the timing gear slides off pretty easily. It is simply a piece of metal that sits in that slot and wedges the timing gear in place, keying it so it is oriented correctly. The metal chunk there at the top is the woodruff key. ![]() Getting to the front crank seal, once the timing belt is off, simply requires removing the timing gear. ![]()
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